By: Diamond Johnson
After a season away, Thom Browne made a dramatic return to New York Fashion Week, reclaiming the closing spot with his signature theatrical flair. Returning to the Shed in Hudson Yards, the same venue where he last mesmerized audiences with his reinterpretation of The Little Prince, Browne drew inspiration from Edgar Allan Poe's haunting 1845 poem, The Raven. In a snowy yard, a bare-limbed tree donned a massive Thom Browne puffer coat and stood guard while a model animated its branches. A lit window with a broken pane served as the backdrop for the other models as they emerged. Browne's fashion shows are not just about displaying his latest collection; they are about creating a breathtaking theatrical experience.
Photograph Credit: Vogue
During a showroom visit before his show, Browne was asked if he was tormented like The Raven's protagonist; he laughed it off. "I grew up loving Edgar Allan Poe," he told Vogue," and also, I do always like for people to see that I'm an American designer." Carrie Coon's narration in The Gilded Age breathed life into Bertha Russell's character in a way that had not been seen in previous outings by Browne. Her delivery of a poignant poem added a level of drama and intensity that kept audiences on the edge of their seats. Coon's masterful execution of the delivery, ranging from calm to agitated, ultimately ending in full-blown hysteria, was nothing short of brilliant.
Photograph Credit: Vogue
The models at the show confidently rocked their crazy, unconventional hairstyles that perfectly matched the Edgar Allen-Poe-inspired theme. Furthermore, some models sported Raven-like net headpieces and fierce black talon-shaped nails, adding an extra touch of confidence to their already stunning looks.
Photograph Credit: Vogue
The Final Act! Browne's show was an absolute masterpiece of artistic creativity and storytelling. During the final portion of his show, he brilliantly accompanied the ravens with bugs, which were represented by oversized balloon coats resembling an insect's body. The bugs (models) were dressed in formal tailoring inspired by the 1910s illustrations of Georges Goursat, aka Sem, and were segmented horizontally. Some bugs (models) were more sculptural, with their top layers peeling off the shoulders, as if in the process of molting, which added an astonishing visual effect to the show.
Browne was ecstatic and bursting with pride over his stunning theatrical runway, and he cannot wait to keep pushing the boundaries and creating even more groundbreaking work.
Photograph Credit: Vogue