By: Caitlin Thompson
This New York Fashion Week the American Label Eckhaus Latta took a different approach to this Fall 2023 collection. In contrast to their previous shows full of color, this collection feels almost unsettling. From the start of the show, there was a dark mood over the entire space. When Latta spoke with Vogue about the collection she said “There’s a kind of moodiness, not in a pessimistic way, but maybe on edge, an uneasy feeling that we are curious to play with.”
Photos courtesy of Vogue
The show takes place in a pitch-black room with spotlights illuminating the models. The collection starts with looks mostly devoid of any color. This is the beginning of this collection's journey to saturation.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
As the show progressed color slowly started to make its statement. When speaking with Vogue about the collection Eckhuas said“We’re thinking of things that come together and come apart, and letting things be mutable as garments”.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
Eckhuas Latta used a variety of textures in this collection. They adopted an open-knit cotton with unfinished and inside-out seams. Toward the end of the show, color infiltrates the once detraction collection.
Photos courtesy of Vogue
They saved some of their best looks for the end. Some garments were made from coated vinyl with gathering at various points on the body to give a marbled look. At the end of every show, Eckhaus includes a poem. This season's poem was “Be Fluidly Brutal and Find God.” This collection has progressed from a brutal, dark theme to one of discovery of balance.