Ulla Johnson dominated New York Fashion Week with looks that were exclamations of gold skillfully offset with fearless combinations of prints, patterns, and materials. With the New York Public Library adding a scholarly yet naturalistic setting, her fashion oeuvre can best be described as ‘fabulously pretty’ meets ‘la vie Bohème’.
The daughter of archeologists, Ulla is a born-and-bred Manhattanite whose forays into the fashion world began in 1998, right after she graduated college. Since then, she’s climbed the ranks from boutique showings to endorsements from Barneys, capturing attention with designs that feature natural fibers and lavish finishings.
For this year's NYFW, Byzantium-gold puffed sleeves were paired with blousy camel slacks that Katherine Hepburn would have positively drooled over, while hippie-chic oversized dresses were accessorized with ruffles and chunky jewelry.
Her ball gowns garnered attention thanks to fabric that was not the traditional silk taffeta, but maltinto (which translates into ‘unevenly dyed’ or ‘mist-dyed’), while shiny gold party dresses with babydoll waistlines looked ready for any black tie soiree.
Patterns were delightfully mismatched, with chunky animal-print sweaters paired with sweeping prairie skirts, while geometric prints utilized bright turquoise amid siennas and syrupy browns.
Artistry and handicrafts took precedence thanks to full-length dresses of hand-crocheted purple and sunflower yellow, while more fall-friendly attire had star designs exploding on quilted materials and paired with checkered pantaloons.
As far as colors go, if a scheme had to be specified then bronze, copper, marigold, and cranberry were the dominant tones, forecasting optimism and confidence for 2023.
Additional looks and styles are below.