Perfection isn’t the point, Personality is.
- 1 hour ago
- 4 min read
You can be dressed in haste but still make them stop and stare. That was the vibe at Proenza Schouler’s Fall 2026 debut under new creative director Rachel Scott.
A little backstory, Proenza Schouler was launched in 2002 by real-life and creative partners Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez right after they graduated from Parsons School of Design in Manhattan. The name Proenza Schouler is actually a mash-up of the founders’ mothers’ maiden names. Since then, the label has defined the modern New York style. The ‘downtown cool’ vibe has been the brand’s statement, complemented by smart, arty pieces you’d expect at a gallery opening in SoHo. The vibe is thoughtful and confident, and the fan club is very chic. Dree Hemingway, Pamela Anderson, Chloë Sevigny, Arca, you name it!
Rachel Scott was announced as Proenza Schouler’s new creative director literally days before the brand show last September. Talk about a quick entrance. But that was more of a soft launch – her real debut was Proenza Schouler’s fall collection that she designed from start to finish after founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez journeyed to Paris to take over Loewe. Big shoes to fill, with an even bigger spotlight to shine.
“It was really important for me to respect the legacy of Proenza Schouler, and that’s this really strong love of the New York woman. But I wanted to find a way to get closer to her, to have more complexity and texture -- she can be erotic, she can be angry. Sometimes she’s not quite so perfect.” Scott said.
The whole collection screamed beauty and contradictions, and her idea of “self-authorship,” where a woman gets to choose who she wants to be that day. She can be polished or a little undone. Maybe she’s usually five minutes early, but today? She’s fashionably late. For fall 2026, Scott’s message is simple: perfection is overrated. This woman is composed but mysterious, disciplined but a little unpredictable. She’s not flawless. She’s human. And that’s even better. The clothes captured this energy beautifully. We saw fringes that looked slightly undone like it had a story. Silk that wasn’t glossy and precious, but crushed and lived-in.
Her first full collection leaned into relaxed suiting, easy dresses and skirts that twisted just slightly off center. It wasn’t messy, but intentional -- like perfection had been gently nudged out of place. The clothes felt like New York life stitched into fabric -- slightly lived-in, slightly spontaneous, and totally smart. The tailoring was sharp but not snooty and the dresses looked like they’d been tugged on mid-walk. She showed us that elegance doesn’t have to be rigid. Sometimes, the magic is in the irregularity.
Then, it was time for fabrics to shine. Rich and textural, they came alive through subtle, uneven drapes and soft pleats, featuring artsy orchid prints straight from a dream.
Taking spontaneity to another level, the beauty look matched the mood. Smudged red lipstick and loose hair, like the models dashed out the door with real world things on their mind beyond the outfits. The runway was lit up with a “I-ran-for-the-subway-but-still-look-fire” energy.
Then came the shoes and bags where Scott really dialed up the drama.
Footwear this season was delightful. Grounded pumps with exaggerated square toes, sharply elongated kitten heels and satin sandals lined with shearling footbeds. Even the ruptured fringe from the clothes made its way onto shoes, carrying that signature sense of intentional imperfection from head to toe.
The magic was in the details. Scott balanced the big-picture ideas with pocket-sized twists that you’d want to zoom in on. Prominent buttons and fringed edges stood out spectacularly.
Once more, Proenza Schouler stole the show with the iconic “it" bags. Over the past 20 years, its Hex bag, the clutch and the bowler have ruled the fashion world. This time, Scott mixed it up, literally. Enter calf hair, cashmere suede, French calf and kidskin! Textures layered together to make classic shapes feel fresh and unexpected.
And the prints? Next-level artistry! Scott turned night orchids into photographic artwork, then let the process show. Film-like borders, traces of manipulation, a marriage of digital precision and human touch. The Proenza piece is now smarter and more playful than ever.
Amidst all that honest chaos through effortless style and couture, the designs felt like they breathe with whoever is wearing them, whispering “I have a life, and clothes are just a part of it, not the whole story.”
It was these bold, daring moments that spark curiosity about the direction Rachel Scott will take Proenza Schouler next. Her next move will likely invite a new kind of woman into the Proenza world — one who prizes instinct, unpredictability and a sense of soul honed over the years at Diotima. Her intuitive and emotional designs have quietly put her on the watch for "America’s next big thing."